Frequent Questions

Specific Looks and Materials

We use the figure 100 square feet per gallon of product. We would not worry about the copper, as Jax Products create oxides on the surface of the copper and will have no negative, long term effects. We would also consider the use of one of the Jax Darkeners (our preference would be Jax Brown-Black) before you apply the Jax Green Patina. It will be far more authentic than just applying the green on top of virgin copper.

Metal must be free of oil, lacquer, grease, wax, dirt and grime; oxidation on metal is fine (actually preferred). Apply the Green Patina with a stiff bristle brush to copper, brass or bronze. Stipple it on the metal with a brush. Apply a thin coat. Do not continue to “play” with the Jax Green Patina after application. Do not rinse off it off the metal. Walk away. Allow 24 hours to dry. Reapply up to 3 coats allowing 24 hours in between coats. We would also consider the use of one of the Jax Darkeners (our preference would be Jax Brown-Black) before you apply the Jax Green Patina. It will be far more authentic than just applying the green on top of virgin copper.

Before applying the Jax Green Patina, use one of the Jax Darkeners, like Jax Brown-Black on the copper to darken the weathervane. Wash the Brown-Black off well with water and use a Scotch-Brite pad to remove some of the oxide (you don’t have to be real careful here). Wash the vane again with water and NOW apply the Jax Green Patina. Organically greened copper doesn’t turn green first; it would naturally turn brown or black and would then, over time, turn green. This process should get you much closer to the original.

The Jax Copper Plating Solution will not work on stainless steel, but will work fine on all other irons and steels. Different surface finishes on the metal before using the plating solution is one way to get different effects (satin, polish, etc.). You can experiment with multiple applications, but a single coat is usually enough. This is a very thin coat of copper, and we would not recommend it on an exterior application unless you are also considering some very serious clear coating.

The Jax Iron Steel and Nickel Blackener is just a blackener — it will not prevent rust. However, a rust-preventive clear coat can be applied over the Jax Iron Steel and Nickel Blackener.

The Jax Blackening, Darkening and Antiquing Solutions create an oxide on the surface of the brass. This oxide should not weaken or damage the metal at all — these are decorative finishes. Our products work by dipping or brushing the chemical onto the metal; clean metal is essential for a quality finish. Washing with water after darkening is also necessary.

The Jax Brown-Black and the Jax Black are actually quite different, chemically and in appearance. The Jax Brown-Black is water-clear (or close to it) and the Jax Black is a blue-based solution. The Jax Black will produce no brown tones at all — the metal will go right to black. The Brown-Black will start at brown and work its way up to black (almost).

The Jax product you will find most useful is the Jax Pewter Black. You should be able to achieve a dark grey to black patina on Zamak 5. A few experiments with application methods and dilution will be helpful.

The best product for blackening brass is the JAX Black for Brass, Bronze and Copper.

Sorry – it does not work on stainless steel.

Jax Green Patina itself only works on brass, bronze, and copper. To create the desired effect on your lead solder we would apply the Jax Copper Plating Solution onto the solder (a maximum of 3 thin coats; washing with water in between each coat). We would then apply a THIN coat of Green Patina over the Copper Plated solder. Do not wash off; let it dry overnight.

Bear in mind that the Copper Plating is an extremely thin coat and too much Green Patina will etch off the copper completely. People do get excellent results but a bunch of experimentation will go into getting this to work perfectly.

Jax Pewter Black will darken lead solder.

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